The sad irony of history is that it repeats, even when the lessons are there in plain sight for us to see. And all humans are human which means that it comes down to science. Tiny chinks in the armor at the DNA level. They show themselves in the most grotesque manifestations, most not skin deep. People who act as if they are not even human at all. Perhaps they aren’t? Perhaps all the madness and cruelty are themselves faint glimmers of millions of years of evolution freeze-framed before our eyes in the present. The precise moment when one species splits from another. The eternal optimist in me believes these mutations will not survive. We are the fittest. They are weak and must resort to insanity to win the human struggle and thus are destined to fail. But not without leaving a wake of pain that will reverberate for generations. We must not forget.
Well, it’s complete as it’s gonna get… for now. See you on Instagram, and then on the flip side!
IRISH SUMMER 2014
UTC = EST + 5
SUNDAY 20 JULY (Miami/Chicago)
American Airlines 1342
Miami (MIA) – July 20, 2014 10:20 AM
Travel Time : 3 h 15 m
Chicago (ORD) – July 20, 2014 12:35 PM
American Airlines 92
Chicago (ORD) – July 20, 2014 06:35 PM
Travel Time : 7 h 25 m
MONDAY 21 JULY (Dublin)
Dublin (DUB) – July 21, 2014 08:00 AM
36 South Great Georges Street
Fallon & Byrne (food hall)
L. Mulligan Grocer (gastropub) 18 Stoneybatter; 353-1-670-9889; lmulligangrocer.com. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, is about 50 euros, or $65 at $1.31 to the euro.
777 (Dinner/Bar) 7 castle house, south great George’s street
TUESDAY 22 JULY (DUBLIN)
The Fumbally (coffee/breakfast) Fumbally Ln, Dublin 8, Ireland
Trinity College (Book of Kells)
Damson Diner (lunch) 52 William Street South, Dublin 2
Royal Hibernian Academy (art) 15 Ely Place, Dublin 2
Doheny and Nesbitt (traditional pub) 4-5 baggot street lower
WEDNESDAY 23 JULY (DUBLIN)
Tour of Croke Park
The Winding Stair (good for sunset) 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1, Ireland
Hugh Lane Gallery (art) Parnell Square North
Charelmont House, Parnell Square N, Dublin 1, Ireland
Chapter One (dinner reservation for 8pm) 19 Parnell Square N, Dublin 1, Ireland
THURSDAY 24 JULY (DUBLIN/BELFAST/BALLYCASTLE)
Zimmern family fun
Check-out (7:00 AM – 12:00 PM)
Europcar | EXTENDING TWO DAYS FOR CORK
Duration: 7 days
Crown Liquor Saloon
Fairhead (cliff view!)
Kinbane Farmhouse B&B
85 Whitepark Road
FRIDAY 25 JULY (BALLYCASTLE/GIANTSCAUSEWAY/SLIGO)
Coopershill House, Riverstown, Co Sligo
SATURDAY 26 JULY (CONNEMARA/GALWAY)
Drumcliff – Yeats (slieve bloom)
Park House Hotel, Forster Street, Eyre Squre, Galway
St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church-Galway Market (Church Lane; galwaymarket.com), Sheridans Cheesemongers (14-16 Churchyard Street; 353-91-564-829; sheridanscheesemongers.com)
SUNDAY 27 JULY (GALWAY)
Hall of the Red Earl (free; Druid Lane; galwaycivictrust.ie)
Galway City Museum (free; Spanish Parade; 353-91-532-460; galwaycitymuseum.ie)
Ard Bia at Nimmos (Spanish Arch, Long Walk; 353-91-561-114; ardbia.com)
Town Hall Theater (Courthouse Square; 353-91-569-777; tht.ie)
Druid Theater Company Druid Lane Theater (Druid Lane; 353-91-568-660; druid.ie)
Crane Bar (2 Sea Road; 353-91-587-419; cranebar.com) over the River Corrib to the West End “down the west”
Backstage Bar at Monroe’s Live (Dominick Street; 353-87-978-3245; monroes.ie).
“the prom” — a seaside promenade providing views across Galway Bay to the rugged landscape of the Burren and leading into Salthill, a resort area past its prime but now dotted with hip bars popping up among the fading casinos.
– the Oslo for pint of locally brewed porter at (Upper Salthill; 353-91-448-390; winefoodbeer.com/oslo),
– the homey Black Cat for wine and jazz in a Georgian town house (179 Upper Salthill; 353-91-501-007; blackcat.ie). A few doors down, it’s soccer on the projector screen and Zlaty Bazant on tap at Krcma (163 Upper Salthill; 353-91-582-233; krcma.biz), a Slovak-owned pub and a gathering place for the central European population.
Aniar (dinner) 53 Lower Dominick Street; 353-91-535-947; aniarrestaurant.ie
Club Aras na nGael (social club) 45 Dominick Street; 353-91-567-824; cnag.ie
MONDAY 28 JULY (KINVARA/ADARE)
Kinvara fishing village
The cliffs of mohar
1826 restaurant, Adare
Berkley Lodge B&B, adare
TUESDAY, 29 JULY (RING OF KERRY)
Butler Arms Hotel, Waterville
WEDNESDAY, 30 JULY (KILKENNY)
The old head of Kinsale
Butler House, 16 Patrick Street, Kilkenny
THURSDAY, 31 JULY (CORK)
Reardens Bar on Washington Street (ask for Stuart Thompson friend of Winkles)
FRIDAY, 1 AUGUST (CORK)
SATURDAY, 2 AUGUST (DUBLIN)
Unicorn food emporium for picnic
Vintage cocktail club
NEDE (lunch or dinner) Meeting House Square, Sycamore St, Dublin 2, Ireland
Temple Bar Market in central Dublin, Silke Cropp sells her “Creemy” sheep cheese.
Forest Avenue (dinner) Ballsbridge – The space is inviting with an open, energetic kitchen as centerpiece and sturdy wood, soft fabrics, and pillowed banquettes that radiate a comfortable elan. Ingredient-driven dishes–like a salad of shaved asparagus, tangy capers, poached egg, radishes, and spring lettuce or a straightforward, elegant cod–shine on a constantly evolving tasting menu.
Murphy’s Ice Cream
Etto (lunch) – Etto may feel like a wine bar–a tiny, convivial space with white walls and neutral furniture–and offer a formidable selection of wines, but the real draw is the food under the direction of chef Barry Fitzgerald. At lunch, the meatball ragu and mozzarella sandwich was paired with tomato, fennel, and marjoram soup to produce a delightful combination of freshness and flavor. But Fitzgerald’s signature dish is fast becoming his ricotta and spinach malfatti, made with mousserons (delicate wild mushrooms), egg yolk, and sage butter.
Hot Stove, 38 Parnell Square West; 353-1-874-7778; thehotstove.ie. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, is about 75 euros.
Hatch & Sons Irish Kitchen – Hatch & Sons Irish Kitchen, 15 St. Stephens Green; 353-1-661-0075;hatchandsons.co. Lunch for two, without drinks or tip, is about 20 euros. There’s sandwich bread and then there is blaa. This bread roll, made in Waterford, about 100 miles south of Dublin, was reportedly introduced to the town in the 17th century by Huguenot immigrants. The town is still making blaa — in fact, in November the European Union granted the blaa Protected Geographical Indication status — but it wasn’t until recently that you could find them outside Waterford.
SUNDAY 3 AUGUST
American Airlines 291
Dublin (DUB) -August 3, 2014 08:55 AM
Travel Time : 7 h 35 m
New York (JFK) – August 3, 2014 11:30 AM
American Airlines 1451
New York (JFK) – August 3, 2014 02:30 PM
Travel Time : 3 h 30 m
Miami (MIA) – August 3, 2014 06:00 PM
Susan Rubin is my favorite aunt, and she’s FABulous. MFA has always been this way. She calls me her first born. Ever since I was a kid, she caught my attention. The globetrotter. The ringleader, bringing the family together with my uncle Mark, whether for sacred Passover seder on their Grove apartment balcony or down by the pool for a shlepy Sunday barbecue. And those were the festivities on the home front. Away, it was Snowmass at the ski-in, ski-out condo she’d arrange each winter, in front of the fireplace we’d gather after a day on the slopes – or in Susan’s case, shopping! – cooking dinner, being a family. Our family. The George Cinq? I was welcome of course! Crashed on the floor. But what a floor it was. And those photos of the giraffes and lions, the printed kind, from far away lands and framed on her wall, a tribal fertility figure holding court on the floor below. That’s my Susan. The memories flock, triangulate in layers behind her wings, spread as if guided by some invisible force fixed to the horizon. My blood like hers runs thick with wanderlust. It will always connect us. The thing is, it’s only part of why I love her so.
This past weekend a few of us gathered in Nicaragua at a magical place called Mukul Resort to celebrate her 75th birthday, and what a trip it was. We sipped Flor de Cana 25 yr in a tiny room, with wicker chairs for her and boyfriend Howard, passed out on hammocks on Manzanilla Beach while storms passed through with enterprising surfers in tow, dined by candlelight illuminating photos meticulously curated by cousin Stacie… And laughed and laughed. Hiking with cousin David, biking with Mom, the agony of World Cup defeat and the exhilaration of soccer pick up games, ages 9 to 33 welcome. And did I mention hot meals on both my internet-booked flights?! More memories, all love, and forever traveling her way. Always my Susan.